With the arrival of autumn, the skin begins to crave foundations with rich textures, but not too occlusive, to accompany the transition as the cold sets in. Therefore, they become key allies to maintain a a luminous finish despite the drop in temperatures and the loss of environmental moisture. Hydrating formulas, with ingredients that reinforce the skin barrier and finishes that are juicy yet controlled, reclaim prominence to counteract the dryness typical of this season.
In the case of dry skin like mine, foundations that have a hydrating finish are essential because if they lack these characteristics, the problem is that my skin ends up with a dry look and cracks as hours pass. For these reasons, if they contain skincare actives they can become part of my routine. How do we choose our foundation in winter? The makeup artist Pilar Vilas explains the keys.
Changing foundation in winter
Is it necessary to change our foundation with the arrival of the cold? The makeup artist believes it is ‘advisable’, first because of the shade, since ‘it is very likely that we do not have the same shade in summer as in winter and it is interesting to have our lighter shade and the darker one so we can blend them in intermediary periods’. On the other hand, the expert considers that ‘we do not usually want or need the same finish’, both in coverage and texture. The reason is that ‘in summer we tend to seek lighter formulas, more transparent and with less coverage, also more dewy with a more hydrating finish’. What happens in the winter months? Vilas explains that ‘we opt for greater coverage (dark circles, veins, marks and spots become more evident without a tan) and finishes that are more matte or satin to accompany more sophisticated looks’.
Each season has its trend finishes. For Vilas the main one would be ‘soft focus’ which is ‘diffused, illuminated skin, but without a greasy or dewy effect’. The makeup artist delves deeper and adds that it ‘comes to simulate the effect of good lighting, softening facial features, volumes and textures’. In other words, ‘it is a matte finish without drying’. If we talk about coverage, for Pilar Vilas ‘the trend remains to maintain naturalness, playing with transparencies (using our own under-eye area, for example, right along the lash line to frame the eye or our own redness as blush, leaving freckles if we have them…)’. She concludes that it is ‘selective coverage only where we truly need it’.
Winter foundations for dry skin
Dry skin needs foundations that prevent drying out as hours go by. In Pilar Vilas’s case, she explains that ‘we can opt for the finish we like best as long as in the preparation of the skin we prioritize hydration and nourishment‘. That said, she recommends ‘opting for dewy and more emollient finishes, with liquid or cream formulas, like serums’.
Regarding skincare actives, the makeup artist is skeptical about them and states: ‘I don’t put much credibility in actives in foundations because they are ingredients that should be in the skin’s preparation and routine‘. That said, she explains that ‘as a makeup artist, I notice that foundations that work best for me are those that care for the formulation and include ingredients such as glycerin, avoid fragrance and alcohol, and include oils similar to our skin’s lipid mantle such as jojoba oil, squalane…’. As for what she avoids in foundations, Vilas mentions ‘essential oils, perfumes, castor oil’, the reason being ‘because, although they offer benefits they can cause allergic reactions’.
Skin preparation and durability
Skin preparation is a key step to achieving a durable finish. It must always be appropriate to our skin type. For Vilas, it is essential to start with a cleansing balm makeup remover, normally after giving the skin a good massage with this type of product. The reason is that it absorbs the amount of hydration needed and removes the excess, so it does not interfere with the foundation. The next step for Vilas is moisturize according to the skin type, leave the skin to absorb and if necessary remove the excess with a tissue. On oily skin, I apply a mattifying primer in the T-zone and depending on the finish I want I apply a serum/emulsion or just a well-adhering moisturizer. In case of outdoor work, I only use sunscreen as hydration. The professional warns about hyaluronic acid in dry climates because I notice it dehydrates more; it has to be very well formulated to maintain hydration.
When applying it, the makeup artist recommends using thin layers, better to build up than to apply a large amount at first and cautions that the more coverage you are going to apply in one area, the more you must hydrate it because the pigment dries out. Regarding longevity, you can set the makeup with two types of setting sprays. First, the ones that moisten, dampen the makeup and help the product mix applied look more uniform. Second, the ones that truly set, which usually contain polymers that deposit on the makeup and prevent transfer, but they also tend to dry it out a bit. You will also find powders, which Vilas says seal the makeup, while also refining the finish. The advantage is that not all are matte; there are satin finishes as well.
Two go-to foundations for winter
This autumn – winter I’m going to use these two foundations. One for day-to-day wear because it is lighter and very hydrating, and another for long days or for those days when I want a longer-lasting finish, but with a natural look.
Surreal Skin Natural Finish Foundation by Make up by Mario.
Make up by Mario
The new foundation from the Kim Kardashian makeup artist’s brand is Surreal Skin Natural Finish Foundation. A foundation with a natural finish that achieves a filter-like effect on the skin and that is long-lasting. Its formula contains antioxidants such as vitamin E or glycerin, the latter retaining moisture and keeping the skin hydrated. Its price is 52 euros and it is available at Sephora.
Pros:
– Its longevity that does not require touch-ups over time.
– I like it because it enhances the skin’s natural look, providing coverage and regulating shine. I find it perfect for events or special occasions.
– I recommend using it with setting powders to increase its durability.
Cons:
– If you’re looking for a luminous finish, this foundation tends to be matte. I think it works much better on oily skin, although dry skin like mine can enjoy it.
Erborian
The iconic CC Cream from the Korean brand has updated its formula. I really like it because it combines treatment and color in one step, with light coverage and providing luminosity. Its formula includes SPF30 and with the product application the skin has a natural finish. It is available in two formats and the price of the 40 ml version is 44 euros.
Erborian CC Cream.
A favor:
– Its formula with skincare finishes such as centella asiatica and hyaluronic acid. Therefore, it becomes an extra hydration boost.
– I like it because the tones adapt to different skin tones, blending with the skin and not leaving it chapped.
– It is very easy to use and although it’s surprising that it is white in color, like a cream, it unifies upon contact with the skin.
En contra:
– If you are looking for a more matte or longer-lasting finish, this is not your foundation.
