On the shores of the Mediterranean, the French Provence dazzles with its sea-facing cliffs, its lavender fields and its picturesque towns. It lies to the south, to such an extent that its landscapes have an Italian accent. And beyond the major cities (such as Monaco, Marseille or Cannes), there are corners as beautiful as Cotignac, in the Var department.
It hardly seems real, for it sits at the foot of a massive rock. It is sprawling (measuring 400 meters in length) and so tall that it seems to touch the sky. But Cotignac exists and is beautiful. That is why it has been and continues to be a favored destination for writers, painters, photographers, and even kings.
Cotignac, the prettiest village of the French Provence
It was in the year 1660 when the steps of Louis XIV reached Cotignac. The Sun King had been ruling France for seventeen years and would do so for another fifty-five. He arrived accompanied by his mother, Queen Anne of Austria, as they both undertook a pilgrimage there to thank the Virgin Mary for the birth of their son Louis. To this day, it remains a place of pilgrimage for the Catholic faith.
But like Santiago or Jerusalem, it is much more than that. And beyond the petitions, offerings, and miracles, we find a beautiful, colorful town. It is hidden by the rock, above all, but also by the canopies of trees (mostly plane trees), which fill its streets with green and shield them from the insistent caress of the sun.
Time passes differently at the foot of the enormous cliff, and at times it even seems we are returning to the Middle Ages, that era that now only lives in books and imagination. The terraces of the restaurants are what break the reverie. They are everywhere, and as you pass by them you feel like sitting down, sampling the Provencal cuisine and enjoying the dolce vita.
What to See in Cotignac
It would be a mistake to limit yourself to tastings and not wander, turning and turning at every corner until you reach the sanctuary of Notre-Dame de Grâces. The church, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, is small, but offers magnificent views of the town and, according to legend, occasional miracles.
It is also worth visiting the following places:
The cave houses that were inhabited by troglodytes and are carved into the rock.
to the Hall of Wonders, a white-colored cave that is, without a doubt, the prettiest in the town.
to the Clock Tower, which was built in the 14th century and formerly served as a watch post.
the Provençal market, held on Tuesday mornings, and the farmers’ market, which takes place during the summer months. Both are perfect places to buy both the best local produce and handicrafts.
TipTurium
Look for the fountains. There are seventeen in the town, though the prettiest is the Fontaine des Quatre Saisons, which depicts the four seasons and, until the 19th century, was part of the Dominican convent of Aix-en-Provence.
Discover the Best Hotel in the French Provence
Surrounded by vineyards and gardens teeming with olive trees, the lovely villa Lou Calen sits in perfect harmony with nature. It is, more than a hotel, a temple devoted to seeking the deepest relaxation. From sunrise yoga classes to the outdoor pool with a waterfall, everything invites you to pause and rest.
It may sound odd to say, but the most special suite is a restored ancient dovecote. But birds no longer circle above it. Now there are only ancient stones stacked on top of one another to form this sort of tower. Inside, there’s a spiral staircase that climbs up to the bedroom, and then disappears onto a terrace with magnificent views of the town.
Although it’s hard to choose, our favorite corner may have turned out to be the hotel’s reception library. We like its books, of course. More than 4,000 in both French and English, with a carefully curated selection of local authors. But above all, we love its literary gatherings, which allow guests and curious visitors to converse with all kinds of authors.
How to Get to Cotignac
The best way to reach Cotignac is by road. It takes about an hour from Marseille, from where you can fly in, as the Marseille-Provence airport is there.
You can also arrive from Nice, though it will take a bit longer: between 1:30 hours and 1:45 hours. However, it’s worth it, because the coastal route and then inland is really beautiful. Another option is leaving Cannes, which is about 90 kilometers away and about an hour and a quarter away.
If you plan to move around Provence by car, book the vehicle in advance, especially if you visit during peak season, between June and August.
TURIUM TIPS
To eat, choose Lou Calen’s restaurant: Jardin Secret. The sustainable cooking of chef Benoît Witz has earned him a Michelin Green Star, since the fruit and vegetables grow in the restaurant itself and the rest of the ingredients come from the Provence markets. His use of seasonal produce makes the menu change constantly, even throughout the same day, so we cannot make concrete recommendations, except this: enjoy.
If you like craft beer, head to O’Fadoli: a bar that brews its own and where you can enjoy delicious tapas, signature cocktails and artisanal liqueurs.
Just an hour from Cotignac lies Valensole, a town famous for its lavender fields. It’s worth visiting, especially between June and July, but anytime is good to make a stop and buy the best lavender honey you will taste.
