Summer is no longer here, and although the sun continues to shine high in the sky across much of the peninsula, fewer and fewer people are approaching the coast in search of the sea’s caress. But contact with nature and the fresh air still appear as an oasis in the minds of those used to roaming the urban center, who now prefer to head inland to visit the prettiest villages of the north. Thus, the early months of autumn become the perfect time for nature getaways, such as the route through the Oca River Gorge, which follows the river and ends in the beautiful town of Oña.
Route through the Oca River Gorge
They say all roads lead to Rome, but the truth is that this is the exception. Just as with the route that ends at a lookout on the banks of the Duero, on this occasion our steps do not reach Italian territory. Perhaps they would have in the past, when the long arms of the Roman Empire stretched to Hispania and the Colonia Clunia Sulpicia occupied much of present-day Burgos. But not today, for the path that accompanies us and sinks us fully into nature begins and ends in Oña.
However, it soon leaves the town and, although it ends up returning to it, first guides us to the Horadada Gorge, which allows us to cross between the Oca and Ebro rivers. The path, which used to be steep and difficult to follow, is today a pedestrian route surrounded by holm oaks, beech forests and pines, many pines, where from time to time a fox, an eagle-owl, a griffon vulture and even the occasional boar can be seen.
In the blink of an eye we find ourselves on the road toward Villanueva de los Montes, at which point it is necessary to turn if we want to return to the starting point. Another option is to go for the adventure and continue along the BU-107 route toward the Oña Lookout Trail. But the town awaits and today we do not want to keep it waiting.
A Stop in Oña, the prettiest village in the north
With Oña happens what constantly happens with the smallest towns. It is easy to overlook them, pass by in the car and not even stop to look, continue with life as if nothing, not knowing that we have just missed the opportunity to visit one of the prettiest villages in northern Spain.
Ignoring it would not be prompted by the bustle of its streets, for its population does not reach 1000 inhabitants. Perhaps we would catch the silhouette of a tower that rises, perhaps we would hear the tolling of the church bells. If that were enough to make us stop, then we would discover a hidden jewel between Frías and Poza de la Sal, surrounded by nature and with views of the Montes Obarenes-San Zadornil Natural Park.
Already inside the town, the beautiful Monastery of San Salvador, dating from the 11th century, catches the eye. The enormous convent blends Romanesque and Gothic motifs and among its most outstanding elements shows sepulchral statues of several people who rest there, a flamboyant Gothic cloister, a Romanesque sculpture of Christ of Santa Tigridia and some Gothic-Flamish paintings that could have been created by Fray Alonso de Zamora.
Nearby, very close, are the armorial houses of the Alonso de Prado and Díaz del Castillo families, the parish church of San Juan and the Palace of Bishop González Manso. All this, part of a rich historical-artistic heritage, led to the town being declared a Bien de Interés Cultural around 1999.
Where to eat well in the province of Burgos
In Burgos you eat well, that is known by almost anyone who has stopped in the province at some time. And once we finish the route through the Oca River Gorge, hunger becomes a travel companion. Fortunately, among towns where blood sausage dishes are served as a specialty and portions are so abundant that repeating is impossible no matter how much you want, in Oña we find an unexpected treasure.
It is the Blanco y Negro Restaurant, whose menu presents a blend of Spanish and Senegalese flavors very difficult to find anywhere else. From this curious fusion arise dishes such as the lamb kebab with couscous and vegetables, the thiebou-djeen, a dish with rice, fish and tomato sauce that is the national dish of the African country, or the tropical tart.
In Poza de la Sal, the neighboring town, Taberna Don Ramón offers a very different concept, though equally comforting: homemade food and friendly service, and a simple menu that will make you lick your lips with the torreznos, the croquettes or the tortilla skewer.
TURIUM TIPS
Every year between July and December the Secret Garden of Oña is held at the Monastery of San Salvador: a cultural project that brings together workshops, concerts and various art exhibitions.
Very close to Oña lies the Cave of the Portuguese: a series of galleries dating from the 7th and 8th centuries, but which in the 20th century were used as dwellings by construction workers of Portuguese origin, hence its name. Access is on the Oña-Trespaderne road and we assure you it is worth descending the stairs to discover this curious cave.
A tan solo media hora en coche encontramos uno de los lugares más especiales de la provincia de Burgos: el Monasterio de Santa María de Rioseco. Este enorme cenobio, hoy en ruinas, ya existía en el siglo XII. En el interior, se pueden ver los restos del antiguo claustro barroco, a través del cual hoy se cuelan los retazos azules de cielo.
