In 2003, when the discovery of the remains of the so-called Flores Man grabbed headlines around the world, many first learned the name of this Indonesian island. Archaeologists found in Liang Bua cave an unknown human species until then, Homo floresiensis, a hominid barely a meter tall who lived here tens of thousands of years ago.
But the international fame of Flores never came through archaeology. For years it remained discreetly situated between Lombok, Sumbawa and Timor, watching from a distance as other Indonesian islands made headlines, hotel investments and international flights. That peripheral position has ended up becoming an advantage. Flores preserves a surprisingly intact personality for a destination that is part of one of Asia’s most visited countries.
Most travelers land in Labuan Bajo, on the western coast. The city has changed a lot over the last decade. Boutique hotels have appeared, restaurants specializing in local produce, and terraces from which to watch one of the best sunsets in the archipelago. Even so, it remains more of an entry gate than a final destination. The true appeal of Flores shows up when you start along the Trans-Flores Highway, a route of more than 600 kilometers that traverses mountains, volcanoes, plantations and remote villages.
The distances seem short on the map, but the roads force you to move slowly. Flores recovers a forgotten idea: that of enjoying the journey.
