Mature skin tends to be somewhat thinner, more reactive and, in many cases, more unpredictable. What they once tolerated without issue may now translate into redness, tightness, or a constant feeling of discomfort. And yet, exfoliation remains a key step to maintain radiant skin, even and with good texture.
Here arises one of the great questions of sensitive and mature skin: how to exfoliate without irritating? The answer is not to remove this step from the routine, but to choose the right type of exfoliation. And at this point, exfoliants with PHA (polyhydroxy acids) have become one of the great allies from the age of 50 onwards.
What are PHAs and why are they different from other acids
The other day, while talking with my easygoing friend, he mentioned the advantage that PHA products have for mature skin. But what exactly are they and how do they work on the skin? PHAs are part of the family of chemical exfoliants, alongside the well-known AHA and BHA. However, their main difference lies in the size of their molecules, which are larger. This makes them penetrate the skin more slowly and progressively, reducing the risk of irritation to a minimum.
In addition to gently removing dead skin cells, PHAs have a particularly interesting characteristic in mature skin: they are humectants. They help attract and retain water in the skin, something fundamental when the skin barrier begins to weaken with age.
Benefits of exfoliants with PHA for mature skin
Used regularly, PHA exfoliants allow skin renewal without causing stinging or redness, even in complexions that react easily. Their progressive action helps to gently remove dead cells, refining the texture without creating that sensation of sensitized skin so common with other more intense acids.
Another major advantage is that they do not compromise hydration. Unlike other exfoliants, PHAs have humectant properties that help keep the skin comfortable, elastic and without tightness, something key for dry or sensitized skin.
Additionally, they contribute to gradually evening out tone, helping to improve the appearance of small irregularities or early blemishes without increasing sensitivity or weakening the skin barrier.
All of this makes PHA exfoliants perfectly compatible with more comprehensive anti-aging routines, even on skin that uses retinol or other intensive treatments. That is why they are especially suitable for dry, sensitive or red-prone skin, as well as for those who feel they no longer tolerate classic exfoliants well, but do not want to give up renewed and radiant skin.
Smart exfoliation helps prevent compromising the skin barrier at age 50
One of the most common mistakes in caring for mature skin is focusing only on the visible results – brightness, fine lines, pores – without considering the state of the skin barrier. Without a strong barrier, no treatment works as it should.
As dermatologist Rita Sêco explains: “When we really think about taking care of the skin, we have to think about active ingredients and not product brands. The most important thing for a product’s effectiveness is the presence of good actives, not marketing with unreal promises.”
This view is especially important in sensitive skin, where the excessive use of aggressive exfoliants can weaken the protective barrier even further. PHAs exfoliate without provoking micro-inflammations, one of the factors that most contribute to chronic sensitivity over time. Their action is gentle, steady and compatible with mature skin, as long as paired with the right actives.
“The most important thing is a gentle cleanse, avoid very hot water, discontinue aggressive exfoliations, and always protect the skin from the sun. Getting enough sleep and reducing stress also helps keep the skin in optimal condition,” says the expert.
Of course, not all PHA exfoliants are the same. The key is to choose well-balanced formulas designed for sensitive and mature skin, that combine these acids with soothing and hydrating actives. We’re showing you some of our favorites.
Medik8 Press & Glow Exfoliating Toner.
Medik8 Press & Glow Exfoliating Toner
It is a toner designed for all skin types. It combines polyhydroxy acid (PHA) exfoliants with hydrating properties. It helps to gently exfoliate the surface of the skin, promoting a noticeable radiance and a smooth texture.
Benton Gentle PHA Exfoliating Gel.
Benton Gentle PHA Exfoliating Gel
It is a perfect exfoliant for sensitive skin. It comes in a gel texture, a third-generation peel that, thanks to the PHA acid and cellulose, whose viscosity traps all impurities and dead skin cells, leaves our skin as soft as silk, smooth and radiant.
The Inkey List Gentle PHA Exfoliating Toner.
The Inkey List Gentle PHA Exfoliating Toner
This is a toner composed of PHA, which removes dead skin cells from the superficial layer of the skin, while naturally retaining moisture. It also contains niacinamide and Aloe barbadensis leaf juice that help unify and calm the skin.
