Hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, retinol, niacinamide… There are as many actives as skin needs. Each ingredient serves a function within our facial care routine, but while it is true that scientific evidence, product quality, and expert opinions should prevail, we cannot deny that the marketing plays an important role in the industry.
No one misses that peptides, ectoine, and PDRN are the actives of the moment, closely followed by retinoids. But before that it was vitamin C, and before that everyone talked about hyaluronic acid. Do cosmetic ingredients also work by trends?
The Ingredient of the Year
Why does it seem that every so often there is a cosmetic ingredient that becomes the ‘star active’? “There is more and more research, especially at the level of seeking an ‘anti-aging’ active that globally addresses what women fear most: wrinkles,” explains pharmacist Cynthia Gil. “With this trend they are discovering actives that can work on different skin types,” she asserts.
The consumer, increasingly demanding, does not stop seeking innovative formulas. Laboratories know this and are looking for ‘the ingredient of the year’. “The advertising of that active and of the brand that launches it influences a lot, and from there other brands begin incorporating it into their products,” the expert argues.
This is how it all begins…
The problem we have is that novelty lasts only briefly and we want more and more. Who decides which active will be in fashion: science, brands, social networks, or consumers? “All at the same time: science proposes it, brands find it at the various actives fairs held throughout the year and, then, through social networks, it goes viral for the consumer”.
Isabel Santos, pharmacist and Director of Marketing and Private Label at Hefame (Interapothek) agrees and adds: “The consumer looks for simple answers to complex needs. It is easier to communicate a specific ingredient than to explain a complete formula. Brands also need to differentiate their launches and social networks favor very direct messages: one active, one benefit and a promise. However, the efficacy of a cosmetic does not depend solely on its lead ingredient, but on its concentration, its formulation, its stability and its fit for each skin. As a pharmacist, I think it is important to convey that broader view”.
Although it is a process in which everyone participates —science can identify the potential of an ingredient; industry turns it into a product; brands and social networks make it a trend, and the consumer ultimately determines whether it stays on the market—, “health professionals have an important role in contextualizing its benefits, its limits and its suitability; popularity and efficacy do not always move at the same pace,” she adds.
Not Everything Is New
It is common that the same active is ‘rediscovered’ under a new name or a new commercial approach. “Rather than renaming the active, what laboratories seek is to give it a new commercial angle based on the benefits obtained after some time on the market. One example: niacinamide, which started as an active that improved barrier function. Now we find it as a brightening agent, sebum control, pore refinement… In short, the Lourdes Virgin of cosmetics,” Gil explains.
Another clear example is retinal. At first, due to its formulations, it was aggressive on certain skins; now the formulas are much more stable and it already has a much longer trajectory in the industry.
The trend solidifies when the consumer recognizes it, seeks it out and begins to associate it with a concrete benefit. The challenge? Distinguishing between real innovation and a well-constructed commercial narrative. “That is why it is advisable to always check what ingredient the product actually contains, at what concentration it is, and what evidence supports the promises associated,” Santos points out.
Appearance in Chronological Order?
“More than appearance, I would talk about moments of popularization because many of these actives were known long before becoming trends. Hyaluronic acid began to have a strong cosmetic presence before niacinamide, peptides or bakuchiol, which have gained prominence more recently. Exosomes represent an even newer stage, closely linked to biotechnology and regenerative research. In any case, that an active becomes popular now does not necessarily mean that it is new nor that it will surpass the previous ones,” Santos insists.
All these actives respond to the need to innovate and renew consumer interest, but they also show that cosmetics move in cycles. “There are actives that cease to be trendy and, nonetheless, remain fundamental due to their demonstrated efficacy. This is the case for retinoids, vitamin C, niacinamide, alpha-hydroxy acids or hyaluronic acid. In dermocosmetics, novelty can be interesting, but accumulated scientific evidence must be the criterion of choice,” she adds.
The Role of the Expert Prescriber
The consumer has learned to read these classics correctly, because, as pharmacist Cynthia Gil notes, “retinol, together with vitamin C and hyaluronic acid, are the most sought-after in our parapharmacy; then, under our guidance, we direct toward one active or another depending on the needs of each skin.”
That said, the expert is clear: “Many times we associate that new means better, and nothing could be further from the truth. If we look at efficacy studies, science always speaks and many actives that were fashionable are no longer in today’s formulations.”
Cosmetic Noise and Storing Bottles at Home
So, does it make sense to change the routine every time a new ingredient appears? Both experts agree: “No, and strongly. We must evaluate each skin and each person according to their needs. We are at a level of consumerism that is frightening and day after day we see women who have more than 20 cosmetics in their homes.”
This accumulation —insists Santos— “can be counterproductive. The skin needs time to adapt and to show results, so changing several products at once can provoke irritation or hinder identifying what really works. A good routine must be built from the skin’s needs, not from a sequence of trends.
That does not mean we cannot try new things, but we must respect our skin’s needs, consulting the ingredients, the evidence, and listening to experts. “When a new active is introduced, it is reasonable to do so progressively and assess its compatibility with the rest of the routine,” notes the head of Gil Vela pharmacy.
Santos explains that innovation in cosmetics in the coming years will move toward more precise, personalized formulas backed by data: “We will see greater development of biotechnology, the study of the microbiome, skin longevity, and active release systems. There will also be increased demand regarding sustainability, tolerance, and clinical demonstration of results.”
The True Progress in Cosmetics
“The question everyone should ask before buying: Do I need it? Will it solve my problem? Is it the active that will take my skin to the next level? If all three are yes, you already have a new product in your kit,” highlights Cynthia Gil.
The best thing is always to consult an expert before incorporating anything into your routine. An ingredient can be innovative and effective, but not necessarily suitable for all skins or compatible with all products. The pharmacist or dermocosmetics expert can help assess whether it addresses a real need, how to introduce it, and what precautions to consider. “I believe the true advance in cosmetics will not be about formulating with more ingredients, but doing it better and recommending in a more individualized way,” states pharmacist Isabel Santos.
