“A good couturier must be an architect for the patterns, a sculptor for the form, a painter for the drawings, a musician for harmony, and a philosopher for measure.” The great master Cristóbal Balenciaga was clear that his craft went beyond creating pretty designs, and he proved it by becoming one of the great names in our world. In fact, today his legacy as a designer remains more alive than ever in the hands of Pierpaolo Piccioli, after his time at Valentino.
On this third day of Paris Fashion Week, Balenciaga is one of the most anticipated houses, but there is also room for Schiaparelli and Isabel Marant, among others. All of them represent mastery and savoir-faire to perfection, but they also give us a glimpse of their inspiration in a subtle and chic tone, especially because the City of Light still has many days ahead for us to let ourselves be carried away by all the trends of the Spring-Summer 2027.
Paris Fashion Week progresses, but we cannot forget the majestic show by Christian Dior in the Jardin des Tuileries, the sensuality of Tom Ford with Laura Ponte’s walk, and gold as an object of desire at Saint Laurent. Undoubtedly, there are still several days to enjoy Parisian fashion, but today we reach nearly the halfway point of the shows. It will be Tuesday when Louis Vuitton will crown a week that promises to continue delivering great moments.
Balenciaga builds a universe of sculptural volumes
Pierpaolo Piccioli is a genius of volumes and the savoir-faire of colorimetry, and it seems that at Balenciaga he has found his place through nature and resilience. In fact, the Spring-Summer 2027 collection was titled The Corals of Freedom, where orange is one of the major protagonists, but also, of course, the use of white and black as a visual counterpoint, combined with blue, pink and yellow.
Balenciaga Look during Paris Fashion Week.
Balenciaga Look during Paris Fashion Week.
Balenciaga Look during Paris Fashion Week.
Balenciaga Look during Paris Fashion Week.
Balenciaga Look during Paris Fashion Week.
Balenciaga Look during Paris Fashion Week.
Balenciaga Look during Paris Fashion Week.
Balenciaga Look during Paris Fashion Week.
The volumes are another of Balenciaga’s great strengths, especially through domed shapes that coexist with methodical tailoring, where the proportions play with the pleats through bombers and blouses with undulating waists. The dresses with organza flowers and in cape are another of the collection’s major protagonists of one of the most anticipated shows at Paris Fashion Week. Undoubtedly, the legacy of the great maestro Cristóbal Balenciaga is more alive than ever, with construction and movement as part of the house’s DNA.
Isabel Marant recovers her bohemian essence with a military spirit
Isabel Marant returns to her most recognizable language through her bohemian and carefree spirit. The French designer manages to blend her signature with military references, but also with that festival spirit that characterizes her so much. Fluid dresses and short silhouettes have been the most repeated looks of the collection, along with boho-chic prints and military green, all through a free and sensual attitude.
Isabel Marant look during Paris Fashion Week.
Isabel Marant look during Paris Fashion Week.
Isabel Marant look during Paris Fashion Week.
Isabel Marant look during Paris Fashion Week.
Isabel Marant look during Paris Fashion Week.
Isabel Marant look during Paris Fashion Week.
Isabel Marant look during Paris Fashion Week.
Isabel Marant look during Paris Fashion Week.
Isabel Marant look during Paris Fashion Week.
Los volúmenes son otro de los grandes fuertes de Balenciaga, sobre todo mediante formas abombadas que conviven con una sastrería metódica, donde las proporciones juegan con los pliegues a través de bombers y blusas con cinturas onduladas. Los vestidos con flores de organza y en capa son otro de los grandes protagonistas de uno de los desfiles más esperados de la Semana de la Moda de París. Sin duda alguna, el legado del gran maestro Cristóbal Balenciaga está más vivo que nunca, con la construcción y el movimiento como parte del ADN de la maison.
Isabel Marant recovers her bohemian essence with a military spirit
Isabel Marant vuelve a recuperar su lenguaje más reconocible a través de su espíritu bohemio y desenfadado. The French designer manages to blend her identity with military references, but also with that festival spirit that characterizes her so much. Fluid dresses and short silhouettes have been the most repeated looks of the collection, as well as boho-chic prints and the military green, all through a free and sensual attitude.
Isabel Marant look during Paris Fashion Week.
Isabel Marant look during Paris Fashion Week.
Isabel Marant look during Paris Fashion Week.
Isabel Marant look during Paris Fashion Week.
Isabel Marant look during Paris Fashion Week.
Isabel Marant look during Paris Fashion Week.
Isabel Marant look during Paris Fashion Week.
Una colección que no necesita alejarse de sus códigos para resultar reconocible, pero donde, sobre todo, se aprecia esa actitud rock femenina que encontramos en una propuesta que parece hecha para vivirla de manera despreocupada. Todo ello mantiene un equilibrio entre lo romántico y cierto aire de guerrera, dos conceptos que conviven de manera natural dentro del universo de Isabel Marant.
Schiaparelli entre volantes, color y sofisticación
Schiaparelli plantea un ejercicio de equilibrio entre estructura y fluidez, alejándose de líneas más encorsetadas. Daniel Roseberry toma como referencia las cortinas que cubrían las ventanas del atelier de Place Vendôme durante la época de Elsa Schiaparelli para crear volantes de cuero y lino. Una paleta cromática dominada por el negro, el hueso y algunas pinceladas de color. El resultado mantiene una fuerza propia de la alta costura, pero con una actitud mucho más relajada.
Schiaparelli look during Paris Fashion Week.
Schiaparelli look during Paris Fashion Week.
Schiaparelli look during Paris Fashion Week.
Schiaparelli look during Paris Fashion Week.
Schiaparelli look during Paris Fashion Week.
Schiaparelli look during Paris Fashion Week.
Schiaparelli look during Paris Fashion Week.
Schiaparelli look during Paris Fashion Week.
Schiaparelli look during Paris Fashion Week.
Schiaparelli look during Paris Fashion Week.
Schiaparelli look during Paris Fashion Week.
Schiaparelli look during Paris Fashion Week.
Schiaparelli look during Paris Fashion Week.
El espíritu de Schiaparelli aparece a través de bordados inspirados en vegetales y de colores procedentes del archivo de la maison, como el azul kingfisher, el verde musgo y el rosa salmón. Bajo el título «Going Clear», Roseberry propone, en definitiva, alejarse del ruido y de la necesidad de aprobación para encontrar una voz propia: una idea más íntima, inmediata y atemporal.
