We often talk, on many occasions, about those designs that changed fashion’s perspective, that became absolute references for everything that followed and that positioned themselves as true icons within an industry always tied to economics, politics and social changes.
We also highlighted those looks that marked a before and after on red carpets, worn by recognized figures or that were decisive at specific moments. But what about shoes? This accessory, which often goes unnoticed, has also played a leading role in the development of trends.
And indeed, although it is often treated as a mere accessory, the truth is that there are some shoe models that stood out and left a legacy that continues today. The evolution of footwear is worthy of study; over the last four hundred years, it has always been modified in parallel with fashion attire.
In different moments of modern history, shoes have become the focal point of style, power, status and sexuality. From the luxuriously ornamented heels of the Rococo, through the discreet sneakers of the early nineteenth century, to the imposing platform shoes of the new millennium, the cultural associations linked to each style have emerged to effectively document the social history of women through fashion footwear.
Roger Vivier (1988).
In fact, the design of footwear has historically aligned with the rise and fall of skirt lengths over the centuries. In earlier times —between the seventeenth and nineteenth centuries—, highly ornamented shoes were hidden beneath long skirts and were valued as more intimate luxury objects. In the twentieth century, shorter skirts left feet fully exposed, and flashy shoes took on a prominent role in the ways of dressing.
Designers have never stopped experimenting with form and concept, continually pushing the boundaries of what a shoe can be. With technological advances in materials and manufacturing techniques, some have even turned shoes into independent works of art, closer to sculpture than to wearable footwear. And these are some of the results that achieved the greatest success.
Louboutin, the red-soled shoes
They are the greatest representation of luxury and social status. We are talking about the famous red-soled shoes, which Christina Louboutin turned not only into the signature of the brand bearing her name but also into a coveted object in its own right. They were born in 1991, when the French designer opened his first store in Paris. It was a year later that the red sole concept emerged, when Louboutin saw that one of his shoes lacked something and decided to paint the sole with the red polish from a worker. The rest is history.
Chanel, the slingbacks most reimagined
Gabrielle Chanel is one of the most recognizable figures in the fashion world, and indeed her work at the French maison also included shoes. She created a backless model that combined beige at the front and black at the toe because, according to the designer, they visually lengthened the leg and made the foot look smaller. They had a comfortable heel, and although it was a shoe designed to be practical in the 1950s, it ended up becoming a symbol of Parisian elegance that endures to this day.
Alexander McQueen, the impossible shoes considered works of art
And if we talk about transgressive shoes that have pushed the extreme possibilities of footwear, undoubtedly, the Armadillos of Alexander McQueen deserve special mention. They appeared in 2009, in his Plato’s Atlantis collection, and were created to convey a futuristic, animalistic and almost extraterrestrial image. The design broke with the traditional idea of what a beautiful or comfortable shoe should be, and Lady Gaga made them world-famous by wearing them in the music video for ‘Bad Romance’. They are considered a work of art.
Roger Vivier, the shoes of Catherine Deneuve
In the 1950s, the French designer Roger Vivier revolutionized luxury footwear. And not only for creating for Christian Dior a pair of shoes for Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation, but for the large and striking buckles as a distinctive element of his shoes. His style combined art, elegance and architecture, and this element swept through even when worn by major film stars such as Catherine Deneuve, who wore them in the film Belle de Jour. In fact, it was so important to the brand that it was subsequently reinterpreted as the famous Belle Vivier.
Manolo Blahnik, the object of Carrie Bradshaw’s desire
Manolo Blahniks became famous for their elegant, delicate designs and very original creations. Indeed, the Spanish designer turned the high-heeled shoe into a true work of art. One of his most famous models is the Hangisi, known for its large crystal clasp at the front, which reached its peak of fame thanks to Carrie Bradshaw, the protagonist of Sex and the City.
Maison Margiela, la revolución de la silueta tabi
The Tabi from Maison Margiela appeared for the first time in 1988, at Martin Margiela’s first show in Paris, and it sparked a revolution with the two-tone toe, inspired by traditional Japanese tabi socks. At first, the design seemed strange and provocative to the fashion world, but today they are a symbol for followers of conceptual and avant-garde fashion.
