We find ourselves in a moment when perfume is taking an increasingly central role in our beauty routines. A form of self-expression in which we can play with notes and even mix different perfumes in the trend known as layering. If we want to create our own trail and are looking for special notes, lactonic perfumes will be a great ally. Creamy, soft, velvety… this type of fragrance may seem to only have dairy notes but its structure is more complex.
Beyond their popularity and distinctive features, lactonic perfumes allow connections with people. This is because they feature notes that connect with concepts such as comfort, nostalgia, intimacy and the feeling of clean skin. But they can also be gourmand, sensual and even exuberant. Their versatility is precisely one of their great attractions.
What is a Lactonic Perfume
First, we must know what we consider a lactonic perfume. It does not have to smell literally like milk. MarieAnna Ferdinand, Director of Fragrance Development at Le Monde Gourmand, explains that “they are characterized by a milky or creamy olfactory quality” as “interpretations or recreations of real milk notes, such as almond milk or cereal milk, or the term lactonic can refer to ingredients that have a milky quality.” This occurs, for example, in “peach notes,” as well as “coconut, fig and even some floral notes.”
The key of these perfumes lies in the lactones. As Ferdinand explains, “they are responsible for providing that creamy, soft or slightly milky effect” and they can “be synthetic” or be present in “peach, fig, coconut and apricot.” If we analyze the family of flowers, they can be found in “jasmine, neroli and ylang-ylang,” the professional explains. For this reason, Mona Kattan, founder of Kayali, believes that “two fragrances described as dairy can smell completely different.” This is because “they are often characterized by a soft and creamy quality that rounds the composition and gives it a nearly velvety feel on the skin,” while on other occasions “you immediately recognize the milk chord.”
A Richness of Notes
As we have seen, lactonic notes can be found in a wide variety of families. “Milk and cream chords are the most direct way to express it, but notes such as coconut, vanilla, sandalwood and soft musks can also create that sense of creaminess” explains Mona Kattan. The expert adds that “if you combine milk with caramel, clouds or chocolate, the result becomes more gourmand and decadent,” while “woods and musks can provide a softer and more sensual finish.”
Additionally, lactonic notes are very versatile because they can be combined with others. In Mona Kattan’s case, she mentions “vanilla, caramel or chocolate” to enhance their gourmand facet. With florals they “can be softer and more romantic,” while “with sandalwood or musk they gain a warmth that almost recalls a second skin.” The expert also loves them with notes such as “oud.” Regarding woody notes, Ferdinand from Le Monde Gourmand mentions that it’s “perhaps a more unexpected combination.”
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An Evocative Fragrance
Lactonic fragrances are among those that can evoke our childhood the most. MarieAnna Ferdinand believes there is something especially comforting and nostalgic about milk. The reason is that many of our first olfactory memories are linked to it: breast milk, milk with cookies, a glass of hot milk before bedtime or milk with chocolate. In short, she believes they connect with these deep, rooted memories that evoke sensations of comfort, nostalgia and care.
Mona Kattan agrees, adding that “a creamy aroma can be comforting for one person and sensual for another. That individual experience is part of its appeal.” The founder of Kayali believes that “people are increasingly open to exploring sweet notes within sophisticated compositions and to choosing a perfume based on how they want to feel that day.” In short, she concludes that “a fragrance is like a bookmark in your life: you can smell something again years later and it instantly brings you back to a person or a moment.”
A Versatile Audience
Who can be drawn to a lactonic fragrance? First, we must identify it and we do so by “looking for a milk impression or a soft creamy texture,” explains Ferdinand of Le Monde Gourmand. Regarding audiences, the expert believes it is “very broad, from children to adults” because it is “a universally recognizable aroma” closely linked to memories.
Karran agrees on its versatility, believing that “someone may be drawn to the comfort of a soft musky aroma, while another may fall in love with a rich milk and caramel gourmand.” When testing it, she suggests we should “test on the skin and let it evolve” because sometimes “the cue is in the dry-down.”
Fragrances with Lactonic Notes
Boujee Kitty Caramel Milk by Kayali.
Kayali
Boujee Kitty Caramel Milk is a creamy and sweet fragrance inspired by the gourmand trend. It blends notes of caramel milk, salted caramel, white chocolate, and caramel sandalwood. (Available at Sephora, 95 euros)
Crème Vainille by Le Monde Gourmand.
Le Monde Gourmand
Crème Vainille is a perfume with vanilla as the protagonist. It combines notes of apricot, orchid or brown sugar, becoming an enveloping and delicate fragrance. (Available at Sephora, 32 euros)
Miss Dior by Dior.
Dior
The iconic Miss Dior is reinvented with a chypre fragrance that combines delicate vanilla and almond, giving it a gourmand and lactonic touch. It also features Rose de Grasse. (50 ml, 125 euros)
Love Tuberose by Amouage.
Amouage
Love Tuberose is a romantic and very feminine fragrance featuring gourmand floral notes. In its heart are lactonic notes of Chantilly cream and vanilla. (Available at Isolée, 365 euros)
Fleur de Lait by Miu Miu.
Miu Miu
The Fleur de Lait fragrance is a feminine perfume with delicate milky accords. These are combined with osmanthus flower and white musk. (167 euros)
Leite Café by Sol de Janeiro.
Sol de Janeiro
Leite Café is a scented mist that can be used on the body or hair. A milky fragrance that combines notes of coffee and coconut lychee. (Available at Sephora, 33 euros)
