When we talk about countries with enormous cultural, historical and natural wealth, we have to mention Spain. Ours is the fifth country with the most World Heritage-listed sites, only behind Italy, China, Germany and France. There are so many that they range from the unique forests of the Community of Madrid to the remote Canary Islands, which hide unique jewels such as the city of La Laguna, which was recognized by UNESCO in 1999.
The former first capital of Tenerife, from the fifteenth to the seventeenth century, stands out for its originality. Unlike Úbeda, which appears on the list with a monumental environment that even includes a palace converted into a parador, the recognition of San Cristóbal de La Laguna comes from an ordered, stable urban fabric with a very thoughtful design. So much so that it served as a precedent for the construction of globally important cities such as Lima, in Peru.
A stroll through the streets of San Cristóbal de La Laguna
In 1999 UNESCO made an unprecedented decision: to include San Cristóbal de La Laguna not for its beauty or its monumental character, but for its urban structure. With streets laid out in a grid, wide and straight, broad plazas and a distribution of public buildings very well thought out, it was named by the World Heritage Centre as the “the first ideal city-territory”.
The contrast between its two population cores is striking. On one side, the Upper Town: old, chaotic and historic; it is the result of a ruleless construction process that began in the late fifteenth century, when Alfonso Fernández de Lugo founded the city. The first settlers began to build their houses around the Church of the Conception: a temple erected in 1497, in Baroque style, from whose tower you can still observe spectacular views of the city.
On the other side, the Lower Town, which is clearly recognized by its long main streets ordered following a grid. This area was organized following the Imole plan, which had been prepared by Leonardo da Vinci. The appeal it held for the upper classes and monastic communities, meant that today we still find buildings of great architectural wealth and numerous temples.
Examples of the former are The House of the Corregidor, with its beautiful red stone façade, or The House of Montañés, which today houses the seat of the Canary Islands Autonomous Government’s Advisory Council. As for the latter, a good example is the church of Nuestra Señora de los Remedios, the current Cathedral of San Cristóbal de La Laguna: an imposing building built with white and gray stone, that blends Neoclassical with Neo-Gothic styles.
How to enjoy this World Heritage city
San Cristóbal de La Laguna is one of those cities that are best enjoyed if we wander without a fixed course, letting ourselves be surprised by what awaits around the corner. Everything here carries airs of rest and planning, from the absence of walls (as it is an inland territory, away from the sea threat) to the harmony of the historic center.
There is nothing isolated here. Everything, from the simple façades of the manor houses of the sixteenth, seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, to the white towers of the cathedral, is made with the whole in mind. Curiosity, keeping your eyes open, are essential qualities for any visitor. Only thus can you enjoy its curiosities, such as the Byzantine icons we find in the Capitular Houses on Bencomo Street, or the manierist façade of the Tenerife History Museum.
To finish, the best is to muster your strength and find the motivation to climb to the San Roque Viewpoint. Once at the top, with the city unfolding before you, you will understand why it has been worth it, for it is the best way to verify that in San Cristóbal de La Laguna everything is designed with care and to the millimeter.
TURIUM TIPS
Our favorite place to eat is La Tedera Restaurant: a perfect spot to enjoy Canarian cuisine, with dishes such as the island’s roasted cheese, fiesta meat, and, of course, papas arrugadas, crispy on the outside and juicy on the inside.
For sleeping, we recommend staying at La Laguna Gran Hotel: located in the town center, it offers carefully decorated interiors, a rooftop pool, and a rooftop where you can enjoy excellent panoramic views of the historic quarter.
Although there are several museums worth visiting, our favorite is the Casa-Museo Cayetano Gómez Felipe, which in the past belonged to a great collector and today exhibits a curious selection of artworks and objects that speak of daily life in the Canaries during past centuries.
