«We do not design for statues or for galleries; we dress the gesture, the stride, and the rhythm of a woman who inhabits the present with absolute ease». The fifth day of Paris Fashion Week has drawn long sips of the philosophy of Nadège Vanhée, Creative Director of Hermès since 2014. A philosophy that reminds us that fashion is not mere aesthetic decoration; fashion is attitude, culture, and above all, practicality.
Her show, one of the most anticipated alongside Céline or Elie Saab for this October 3 after the already celebrated Balenciaga or Loewe, stood out during the day without grand artifices but with the veteran know-how to create a technically perfect collection through pieces that preview the trends we will wear during the Spring/Summer 2027 season.
Hermès, faithful to its colors and materials
The show, held at 3:00 PM in the iconic Garde Républicaine installation, a former military compound in Paris, France, demonstrated the ability to reinvent each season the maison’s classics alongside trend resources such as openwork fabric or fringes: earthy tones ranging from beige to orange and a livelier, more elegant yellow, leather, belts, bags and one of its flagship items, silk scarves.
For this last accessory, the purpose shifts and Vanhée proposes to stop wearing the scarf around the neck, head, or bag, to create a double-wrap scarf top, a technique we have seen in several looks on the runway and that will take the next year by storm.
Look from Hermès at its Spring/Summer 2027 show during Paris Fashion Week.
Look from Hermès at its Spring/Summer 2027 show during Paris Fashion Week.
Look from Hermès at its Spring/Summer 2027 show during Paris Fashion Week.
Look from Hermès at its Spring/Summer 2027 show during Paris Fashion Week.
Look from Hermès at its Spring/Summer 2027 show during Paris Fashion Week.
Look from Hermès at its Spring/Summer 2027 show during Paris Fashion Week.
En cuanto a la colección en general, presenta un rigor técnico y una funcionalidad refinada, y profundiza en la ideal del aligeramiento físico y visual, transformando la densidad del cuero y la estructura de la sastrería, en prendas muy ligeras y dinámicas.
La propuesta continúa así, consolidando el lenguaje de quiet luxury y sofisticación funcional que define a la firma francesa. El foco sigue estando en la longevidad de las prendas y en la relación pragmática entre el vestuario y el cuerpo de la mujer contemporánea.
Céline and the office-dream garments
During the same day, Céline has also positioned itself as one of the great French houses that work real-life clothing (IRL fashion) and unpretentious elegance. Under the leadership of designer Michael Rider, the collection presented stands out thanks to pieces designed for daily life and urban dynamism: suits with attitude but devoid of irony, designed to adapt to the wearer’s personality more than to impose on her.
The runway offering has been marked by a very Parisian aesthetic and a studied nonchalance, but also by impeccable tailoring: blousons, fluid trench coats and jackets with shoulders slightly defined but with a loose fall, building clean and streamlined lines.
As for the color nuances, a palette of neutral tones dominates (nocturnal blacks, navies, beiges and crisp whites) interrupted by subtle flashes of color in accessories and complements. With this show, Céline consolidates a pragmatic and timeless wardrobe, reaffirming that Parisian sophistication lies in the perfect balance between the structure of the pattern and the ease of movement.
Elie Saab: femininity shines
What a fantasy when there are no restrictions to elevate femininity to its maximum expression. To use all the elements that make dressing a woman so precious. That is what the Lebanese designer Elie Saab has once again demonstrated in his latest collection during Paris Fashion Week.
While we await details of his new collaboration with H&M, the designer has released a Spring/Summer 2027 collection in which he has translated the garden and flowers into idyllic pieces with a romantic air that have not gone unnoticed on this fifth day of Paris Fashion Week.
Elie Saab Spring/Summer 2027 collection at Paris Fashion Week.
Elie Saab Spring/Summer 2027 collection at Paris Fashion Week.
Elie Saab Spring/Summer 2027 collection at Paris Fashion Week.
Elie Saab Spring/Summer 2027 collection at Paris Fashion Week.
Elie Saab Spring/Summer 2027 collection at Paris Fashion Week.
Con una predominancia de la gama cromática más suave, en tonos rosas y verdes pastel, el modisto ha apostado fuerte por tejidos de satén, tejidos vaporosos y superpuestos, y otros elementos como los encajes, las transparencias, los bordados, la pedrería y una fuerte presencia de los corset, una de las tendencias que más vamos a ver la próxima temporada.
