When Christine Nagel speaks of Barénia, she doesn’t start by talking about perfume. She talks about leather. And she recalls her first visit to Hermès workshops, surrounded by hides. She instantly transports herself to the fascination she felt when discovering Barénia leather for the first time, one of the house’s most emblematic materials, which inspired the first version of this perfume.
From that experience was born a fragrance conceived as a second skin. Now, with Barénia Pleine Fleur, the perfumer explores a more floral and luminous facet of that universe. We spoke with her about this new creation, the Hermès woman and the importance of raw materials in her creative process.
WOMAN TODAY. Barénia was born inspired by one of Hermès’ most iconic leathers. Why did you want to turn that material into a fragrance, and what does it represent within the maison’s universe?
Christine Nagel. When I arrived at Hermès I asked to visit the place where the leathers are stored. The artisans showed me the hides one by one, explaining their characteristics, and when Barénia appeared I felt something special. It is an incredibly soft, sensual, and alive leather. But what fascinates me most is how it ages. The more you use it, the more beautiful it becomes. It develops a unique patina that tells a story. In fact, my first Hermès bag was Barénia. The first scratch hurt me a lot. The second one too. But over time I understood that those marks were part of its beauty. That idea of a material that lives and evolves deeply inspired me.
Christine Nagel
She defined Barénia as a “second skin.” What does that idea mean to you?
Hermès is a house of artisans and of exceptional materials. When I create a perfume I think a lot about the touch. I want it to have texture, to blend with the skin. I love when someone describes a fragrance as creamy, flexible or enveloping. To me, a perfume is not only smelled, it is also felt.
How does the Barénia universe evolve with Pleine Fleur?
After the first creation I felt there were still more stories to tell within that olfactory family. Barénia Pleine Fleuris a brighter and more open version. I wanted to bring a more floral, more radiant sensation, without losing the personality of the original fragrance. It remains Barénia, but with a different energy.
Barénia Pleine Fleur
Who is today the Hermès woman for you?
She is a woman with confidence. She has personality and she knows what she likes. She doesn’t need to draw attention to stand out. There is always something very authentic about her. Also a great appreciation for quality, for well-made things and for unique materials.
In this fragrance white flowers mingle with warmer and more sensual notes. Were you interested in working with contrasts?
Always. I think a perfume needs it to be interesting. Light needs shadow. Delicacy needs depth. And sensuality is an essential part of my way of creating.
Barénia marked Hermès’ entry into the family of chypre scents. What attracts you to it?
I find it one of the most beautiful universes in perfumery and also one of the most complex. I had long dreamt of creating a chypre for Hermès. It has a very precise structure, but also enormous creative freedom. When someone discovers a great chypre, they tend to form a lasting relationship with it.
Hermès has a very special bond with craftsmanship. How is that reflected in a perfume?
In the insistence on quality. When we select a raw material we always seek the best possible quality. It is exactly the same philosophy that governs the house’s other crafts. For many people the perfume is their first encounter with Hermès, and I feel a great responsibility in conveying those values.
What would you like a woman to feel wearing this new version of the perfume?
That she feels good. And also that she believes she is wearing something with its own personality. Today there are so many perfumes, and it is increasingly difficult to find truly different proposals. For me it is important to create something recognizable, something that has its own voice. If someone feels that Barénia Pleine Fleur represents her, then I will have achieved my objective.
