Brown Lipstick Is Back, But It’s Not Worn Like It Was in the 90s

Brown is no longer a difficult color to wear on the lips. At least, not in the version that is gaining ground this season. In contrast to those dark, opaque, and perfectly defined lipsticks we associate with the 1990s, now the color appears much more diluted: chocolate, coffee, caramel, or toasted shades that reveal the natural tone of the lip and allow you to decide how much color you actually want to wear.

The new textures also make it much easier to get it right. Balms, serums, and translucent-coverage formulas allow starting with barely a veil and adding layers if we want to increase the intensity. Thus, even tones that seem very dark in the tube can be much easier to wear once applied. And, by the way, they don’t force you to choose between an almost nude finish or a very bold brown.

The way you apply it also changes the result quite a bit. To achieve that more current effect, we can forget about drawing an absolutely perfect outline: simply apply the color and then run a finger along the edges to soften them. If we prefer to use a lip liner, it works better blending it slightly inward before adding the product. The idea is that it should not be obvious where the color begins.

The best part is that we can try this trend without buying anything new. That dark lipstick that’s been sitting unused in the makeup bag for months can work if we change the way we use it: apply a small amount, remove the excess and blend with the finger; a little balm on top will help soften the color even more. Because this time the return to the 90s isn’t about copying that makeup in detail, but about reclaiming its most recognizable shade and wearing it in a much more relaxed way.

Laneige Glaze Craze Tinted Lip Serum, shade Chocolate Frosting. A tinted lip serum that moves brown toward a much lighter and more luminous finish. Its buildable pigmentation allows you to gauge the intensity, while the light texture provides shine and leaves the lips hydrated and comfortable.

Chanel Rouge Coco Baume, shade Natural Charm. Halfway between treatment and makeup, this balm lets you go from a light veil of color to a stronger result depending on the number of layers. Its finish preserves a natural luminosity that softens over time, while helping to keep the lips hydrated, soft, and flexible.

Rhode Peptide Lip Tint, shade Toast. This lip treatment combines a translucent and modulable color with a glossy, luminous finish. Its nourishing formula hydrates dry lips and keeps them soft, becoming an easy way to wear toasted tones without resorting to a full-coverage lipstick. Available at Sephora.

Lip Idôle Butterglow Glowy Color Balm, shade Don’t Be Chai. A lightweight color balm that melts onto the lips and allows you to modulate the result, from a subtle touch to a more intense finish. Its formula with squalane and ceramides combines hydration, shine, and color in a single gesture.

The Melting Lip Balm by Tatcha, shade Mocha. A nourishing balm that transforms into an oil upon contact with the lips. Its formula helps maintain hydration and care for the lip barrier, leaving a glossy, comfortable finish with no sticky feeling.

Afterglow Lip Balm, shade Crush. A creamy balm that combines hydration with a translucent coverage and a light touch of color. It can be worn alone or layered with other products and leaves the lips with a comfortable, non-sticky shine.