For some time now, retinol and vitamin C have occupied a large part of the conversation around cosmetic actives. However, there is another ingredient much less talked about that is beginning to make space in increasingly more routines. It is azelaic acid, an active ingredient particularly interesting because it can act on several of the issues that worry adult skin the most: dark spots, redness, and blemishes.
Its popularity is not by chance. It is one of the ingredients appearing in an increasing number of cosmetic launches, driven by its ability to treat outbreaks, redness, and pigmentation irregularities. What is the reason for its success?
What azelaic acid is
Although its name might suggest exfoliants like glycolic or salicylic acid, azelaic acid belongs to a different family. It is a dicarboxylic acid that has been used in dermatology for decades, especially in the treatment of acne and rosacea.
One of the reasons it is so interesting is its multitasking nature. It has anti-inflammatory action, helps to control the bacteria related to acne, and also participates in the processes responsible for certain pigmentation alterations.
Why it can help with spots, pimples and redness
In acne-prone skin it can help both with the blemishes and with the post-inflammatory marks. It is normally used primarily for mild or moderate acne and can also be useful when pimples leave post-inflammatory pigmentation.
It also has a known role in rosacea-prone skin. Azelaic acid in gel or foam is among the actives approved to treat acne-like lesions associated with rosacea and indicates that it can also contribute to reducing persistent discoloration.
Does it replace vitamin C or retinol?
The headline may lead you to compare them, but they actually serve different functions. Retinol remains one of the most studied actives for improving texture, pigmentation, and signs of aging, while vitamin C is mainly used for its antioxidant action and its ability to brighten the complexion.
The appeal of azelaic acid lies elsewhere. It can be especially attractive when, in addition to spots, there are redness, inflammation, or a tendency toward breakouts. In fact, many studies warn that retinoids may not be the best choice for some people with a lot of inflammation or redness and recommend consulting with a dermatologist when rosacea is suspected.
So it is not necessarily about choosing one or the other. In certain routines they can even coexist, as long as the skin tolerates it and they are introduced correctly.
How to introduce it into the routine
In cosmetics, azelaic acid around 10% is common, while higher concentrations may appear in dermatological treatments depending on the country and indication.
As with any active ingredient, the safest approach is to introduce it gradually. It can be used in the morning or at night and combined with moisturizer and, during the day, with sun protection.
The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Serum.
Although commonly considered a well-tolerated ingredient, that does not mean it is entirely innocuous. It can initially cause itching, dryness, stinging, or flaking, especially in very sensitive skin. Some studies recommend stopping its use and consulting if intense irritation occurs.
Two Poles Brightening Azelaic Acid Serum.
And another important point is that if there are persistent spots, diagnosed rosacea, or moderate to severe acne, a cosmetic product should not replace a dermatologist’s assessment.
