If you use retinol you probably know the situation well. You start with every intention of staying consistent, and a few days later, tightness, flaking, or redness appear that make you question whether it is worth continuing. Precisely to avoid this, a technique with an easy-to-remember name has become popular: retinol sandwich.
The idea could not be simpler. Instead of applying retinol directly to clean skin and finishing with moisturizer, the active ingredient is placed between two layers of cream: moisturizer, retinol, and moisturizer again. But precisely this buffering effect has generated another question: if we place a barrier between the skin and the retinol, are we also preventing it from doing everything we expect of it?
What exactly is the retinol sandwich
After cleansing the face, a first layer of moisturizer is applied. Next comes the retinol, and finally a second layer of cream. The aim of the first moisturizer is to make the contact of the retinoid with the skin less aggressive, while the second helps to maintain hydration and counteract part of the dryness that can appear during its use.
Does it really reduce retinol irritation?
Dryness, flaking, redness, or a stinging sensation are effects that can appear when introducing certain retinoids, especially if we begin using them too frequently or if our skin tends to be dry or sensitive.
When a retinoid causes irritation, it may be advised to apply less, use it less frequently, or place the moisturizer before the treatment. In other words, creating a more hydrated environment can help the skin tolerate better a potentially irritating ingredient.
So, does the moisturizer make retinol work less?
Applying a cream beforehand can modify the way the product contacts and penetrates the skin. That is why it is used precisely as a kind of cushion to improve its tolerance. But from there one cannot automatically conclude that the retinoid stops working.
In fact, there are studies in which the joint use of moisturizer and retinoids has managed to reduce side effects without interfering significantly with the treatment.
Is it possible to use retinol and moisturizer?
Moreover, the question of how exactly the order of the layers influences the retinoid activity continues to be studied. In 2025, data were presented on different application methods with moisturizers precisely because, until then, there were no specific molecular studies that would allow quantifying what happens to retinoid activity when the order of application is modified.
Who can benefit from the retinol sandwich?
It can be especially interesting when you are starting to incorporate a retinoid, when there is a tendency toward dryness, or when you have previously tried using it and irritation forced you to abandon it.
On the other hand, skin that has been using retinol for a long time and tolerates it perfectly probably does not need to add a prior layer of moisturizer.
How to apply the retinol sandwich trend.
It is also worth taking into account the formula. It is not the same to introduce a low-concentration cosmetic retinol as to use a prescription retinoid. If it is a treatment prescribed by a dermatologist, it is advisable to follow their instructions before modifying the way of application.
How to do the retinol sandwich
The simplest version starts with a gentle cleanse. Then apply a thin layer of moisturizer and let it absorb. On it the amount of retinol indicated by the manufacturer is used — or prescribed in case of a medication — and it ends with another layer of moisturizer.
