Best Facial Cleansing for Dry Skin: Step-by-Step Guide by Dermatologists

For a long time, facial cleansing has been associated with the feeling of skin being completely oil-free, even when the tight, post-wash sensation was a sign that we had overdone it. On dry skin, especially vulnerable to water loss and deterioration of barrier function, choosing the cleanser format and how we cleanse is key.

Cleansers in balm and cream formats have become among the favorite alternatives for this skin type thanks to their emollient textures and their ability to remove makeup, sunscreen and dirt without necessarily resorting to too aggressive systems that could damage the skin. But, beyond the format, the formulation of these products also plays an essential role with care-active ingredients that are very beneficial for a respectful cleansing.

Cleansing for Dry Skin

Dry skin needs to pay attention to cleansing; it cannot be overly aggressive because that can end up drying out and dehydrating the skin. Dr. Ana Revuelta, medical director of the Ana Revuelta Clinic and founder of Renare skincare, explains that “a dry skin not only needs to remove impurities, it needs to do so while preserving as much lipids and barrier function as possible.” The professional highlights that “oily textures, in balm or cream, allow for effective cleansing but more comfortable.” Dr. Marjorie Garcerant, doctor of medicine and surgery and medical director at Bexclinic, believes that “in dry skin, cleansing well does not mean de-greasing to the maximum” and adds that “good cleansing leaves the skin clean, not unprotected.”

Therefore, balm or cream format cleansers stand out, in Dr. Revuelta’s words, because “they help dissolve makeup, sunscreen, sebum and impurities” and they also “provide comfort to the skin.” Additionally, Dr. Garcerant adds that “their formulation usually includes a higher proportion of emollient and lipid components and gentler surfactants.” For dry skin, this is important because “ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids are part of the essential architecture of the skin barrier.”

The Oil Phase, the Key for Dry Skin

There is a wide variety of options to cleanse dry skin, but what makes the difference in balm or cream formats? “Many makeup components, sebum and especially water-resistant sunscreens are lipophilic. The oil phase of a balm can solubilize them and then emulsifiers allow that mixture to disperse with water and be removed when rinsing,” explains dermatologist Elena Martínez Lorenzo. She differentiates them from traditional soaps that “contain surfactants that also work by surrounding fat and dirt forming micelles, but certain surfactants can also interact with proteins and extract lipids from the stratum corneum.” If that interaction is high, “the greater the potential alteration of the barrier.”

Dermatologist Carlos Morales Raya, founder of Morales Raya Clinic and Raya skincare, adds that “they tend to contain a substantial proportion of oily components” that add to the formulas “humectants and emollients that help reduce water and lipid loss during cleansing.” The professional considers that “the result should be clean skin, but comfortable, without that sense of having overgreased it.”

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But we must not forget that how we remove our makeup can also make a difference. Arturo Álvarez – Bautista, chemist, PhD in nanomedicine and scientific director and innovator at Arturo Alba, warns that “the secret is not to clean less, but to better select what we remove. Surfactants form micelles capable of incorporating fat and dirt and then dragging them away with rinsing.” The professional considers there is a problem when “the cleansing system is too aggressive, at an excessive concentration or remains on the skin too long.” If this happens we find that “in addition to removing dirt, it can also extract intercellular lipids and alter proteins of the stratum corneum.” Therefore, he concludes that “good cleansing should be effective and extraordinarily unobtrusive: the skin remains clean, not chastised.”

Actives for Cleansing Dry Skin

Beyond the type of cleanser, we must pay attention to the formula and the actives it contains. Dr. Martínez Lorenzo “would look at the full formulation” and recommends “mild surfactants, syndet systems versus alkaline soap, a slightly acidic pH close to physiological.” She also adds “humectants such as glycerin, emollients and lipids or barrier-related components such as cholesterol and ceramides.” To these recommendations, Dr. Morales Raya adds that “humectants like glycerin; emollients, such as squalane” or certain oils and esters or barrier-function ingredients such as ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids are interesting. He also adds “panthenol or colloidal oats, especially for sensitive skin.”

In these actives, Arturo Álvarez – Bautista agrees, but nevertheless warns that “in a cleanser the entire formulation system matters much more than finding a heroic INCI ingredient.” This is because “a product that remains on the skin for one or two minutes should not be judged as a serum.” For the chemist, the most interesting part is “how it cleans, with what surfactants, how much it degreases, how it emulsifies and how the skin looks afterward.” He concludes by saying that “cosmetics has developed a certain obsession with seeking protagonists when often what matters is that the whole cast works.”

Mistakes and the Meaning of Double Cleansing

What are the most common mistakes we make when cleansing the skin? Dr. Carlos Morales Raya notes “over-cleansing, using too much product, cleansing several times without necessity, using very hot water or insisting excessively with pads, towels, brushes or cleansing devices.” Another mistake he points out is “combining aggressive cleansers with physical or chemical exfoliants.” For dry skin, Arturo Álvarez – Bautista considers “choosing a gentle cleanser, using lukewarm water, massaging without excessive friction, rinsing well and drying with light taps.” He also highlights “applying the moisturizing treatment on skin that hasn’t had time to unnecessarily lose water.”

Double cleansing is a very popular procedure for dry skin, but it does not have to be mandatory. Marjorie Garcerant believes that “double cleansing can make sense when we wear resistant makeup, very persistent sunscreens or particularly occlusive products, but it should not become a universal obligation.” Dr. Ana Revuelta agrees, adding that “in dry or sensitive skin, cleansing more can also be counterproductive.”

Cleansers in Balm and Cream Formats

Arturo Alba

First-Cleaning Balm and Makeup Remover removes makeup residues and the oily treatments we apply on our skin throughout the day. It can be used even around the eyes and, with use, it soothes and repairs the skin. (€32)

Dior

Baume Démaquillant is an oil-format balm that can be used on eyes, face and lips. With extracts of Rosa de Granville, it removes makeup remnants while keeping the skin hydrated. (€110)

Lico

Polynessian Essence is a calming cleanser indicated for sensitive skin. A balm with azeloglycine, azelaic acid and probiotics that promotes cellular regeneration. (€39.90)

Fluff

The Vanilla-scented Cleansing Balm removes makeup residues while performing a delicate exfoliation. With shea butter and shorea, these actives nourish and calm the skin. (€5.50)

Skin&Co

Whipped Cleansing Cream is a cleansing cream that removes makeup residues and impurities. The formula features Umbria black truffle with antioxidant action. (€22)

U/1st

The Mini Multi Active Serum Cleanser balm is a convenient format to carry anywhere. Its formula contains hydrating and soothing actives such as squalane, inulin and vitamin E. (€15)

Byoode

Metamorphosis of Narcissus removes the most challenging makeup and sunscreen residues. With calming and regenerating action, it is antioxidant and leaves the skin looking hydrated. (€40)

Twelve Beauty

Clementine Cleansing Beauty is a gentle balm that removes dirt and imperfections. It provides radiance to the skin and reduces transepidermal water loss. (€55)

Byphasse

Bálsamo Desmaquillante Douceur is a perfect product to use as the first step of double cleansing. The formula is vegan and contains 93% natural ingredients. Sweet almond oil nourishes and hydrates the skin. (€4.99)