You may be surprised, but I have a fairly concrete idea of how a European summer should smell. For me it’s a mix of sun-kissed skin after swimming in the Mediterranean Sea, freshly cut citrus, white flowers, sunscreen, and that indefinable scent of nights that begin with a dinner by the sea and you don’t know where they will end. Perhaps it’s a somewhat idealized image, but that’s precisely what I love most about perfumes, that they can take you to Capri, Ibiza, Alicante or a Greek island even if you’re spending August in the city.
Moreover, after trying many summer fragrances, I’ve also learned that freshness doesn’t have to mean simplicity, nor, much less, being insubstantial or short-lived. The best trails manage to balance citrus, aquatic, green or solar notes with musks and woods that give them depth and make them linger longer on the skin. That is exactly the combination I seek, perfumes that feel light when it’s hot, but still have sufficient personality to make someone ask what you’re wearing as you pass by.
These six that I have selected represent them very well. Some remind me of Mediterranean mornings and others have a sophisticated edge of a Italian summer night. Either way, they all manage to transport me on vacation. They are fresh, elegant and have a slightly irresistible allure that is completely addictive.
In my ranking: perfumes that smell like European summer
Moher Swann Orange Blossom Marzipan Sponge.
Moher Swann Orange Blossom Marzipan Sponge. It is probably the most gourmand of the selection, but it has just that bright note that makes it work well in summer. Its combination of green mandarin, blood orange, and orange blossom delivers a citrusy and Mediterranean opening, while the marzipan accord introduces a creamy sweetness that inevitably recalls an Italian dessert course. And don’t worry, it doesn’t overwhelm and lasts all day.
Juliette Has a Gun Lust for Sun.
Juliette Has a Gun Lust for Sun. It is my perfume for this summer. It smells of seaside vacations thanks to the floral effect of ylang-ylang and the orange blossom that makes it warm, solar and luminous. To this are added notes of Monoï and coconut to reinforce the sense of timelessness that characterizes these months.
Acqua di Parma Buongiorno Gioco del Destino.
Acqua di Parma Buongiorno Gioco del Destino. With Italian green mandarin, yellow mandarin and Sicilian lemon, this perfume builds a sparkling and luminous opening that reminds us of vacation mornings when everything seems to start a little slower. It is elegant, long-lasting and different.
Maison Crivelli Citrus Batikanga.
Maison Crivelli Citrus Batikanga. It is the clear example that a citrus perfume can have a lot of character. Bergamot and orange bigarade appear first with all their brightness, but a chili accord quickly takes the stage, transforming the fragrance completely. In the background, vetiver, cedar and myrrh provide a dry, woody, warm base that contrasts wonderfully with the juicy opening. The result is very fresh, but with a spicy facet that makes it different.
Goldfield & Banks Sunset Hour.
Goldfield & Banks Sunset Hour. The inspiration lies in bottling a sunset, and it achieves this thanks to its blend of mandarin, pear and desert peach that create a juicy and cheerful opening with a small saline nuance that recalls skin after hours by the sea. As time passes it becomes more sensual thanks to ginger, jasmine and raspberry, before settling on a warm, sweet and woody base.
Molinard Méditerranée.
Molinard Méditerranée. It is a statement of intent. It is built around notes that evoke the sea, the sun, and the coastal vegetation, starting with calone and tiaré flower. That combination creates an aquatic and floral first impression that is very appealing as the temperatures rise. It is easy to wear day-to-day and sufficiently elegant for special occasions.