And what if we told you that silent inflammation is the main cause of your skin aging? In dermatology it is known as inflammaging (inflammation + aging), a chronic low-grade inflammation that, together with the sun (UV rays, infrared and visible light), is one of the major drivers of premature skin aging.
“I would say it is one of the major accelerators, although not the only one, since there are other factors that can intervene, intrinsic and extrinsic. The low-grade chronic inflammation keeps the skin in defense mode, consumes reparative energy and favors the loss of collagen, elasticity and luminosity,” explains Raquel González, cosmetologist and creator of Byoode.
The Perfect Storm
This inflammaging increases with age and lifestyle. It worsens with pollution, stress, lack of sleep, highly inflammatory diets (rich in refined carbohydrates, saturated fats and ultra-processed foods), hormonal changes, over-exfoliation, the use of aggressive cosmetics, or a weakened skin barrier.
“Often it is not a single cause, but the sum,” clarifies Irene Serrano, director of dermocosmetics at Dermalogica.
Wrinkles, blemishes or skin sagging can give clues that something bad is cooking inside our body. “Inflammation is behind a wide range of chronic diseases, responsible for more than half of the world’s deaths associated with heart attack, stroke, cancer, diabetes, chronic kidney disease, non-alcoholic fatty liver disease or autoimmune or neurodegenerative diseases,” explains Ángel Durántez, expert in antiaging medicine and member of the Longevitas scientific committee.
The Alarm Bell
The worst of all is that you can be suffering it without realizing it. Hence it is nicknamed ‘silent’. There isn’t always obvious redness, pimples or itching. “Sometimes the skin is inflamed from within and expresses it more subtly: it looks dull, tight, reactive or with worse tolerance to what used to suit it. When we see that something isn’t functioning as before, this could be the axis,” reveals Mireia Fernández, director of dermocosmetics at Perricone MD.
This is also confirmed by Marta Agustí, nutritional director of Advanced Nutrition Programme: “It doesn’t usually warn with a clear reaction, but the skin starts behaving differently: it irritates earlier, recovers worse and loses that sense of comfort and good-looking skin.”
Grayish Skin That Pricks…
To detect that silent inflammation that ages, you don’t have to look for wrinkles and spots. You must go beyond, look for those symptoms in the skin that can make you think that what your skin is suffering is inflammaging:
- More reactive skin. “When the barrier is altered, the skin lets external irritants pass more easily. And that’s why it responds with redness, stinging or discomfort in response to temperature changes, cosmetics or even water,” says Estefanía Nieto, director of dermocosmetics at Medik8.
- Tightness and dryness. The inflammation weakens barrier function and increases water loss. “The skin doesn’t retain hydration well and that tight, uncomfortable feeling appears, even if we are using cream,” explains Raquel González.
- Sensitivity and a sense of discomfort. “An inflamed skin has its nerve endings more awake. That’s why it can feel uncomfortable, itch or sting slightly without a clear lesion,” explains Mireia Fernández.
- Less brightness or dull tone. When the skin is busy defending itself, renewal and microcirculation are poorer. “The result is a greyer tone, less fresh and with that feeling of ‘looking tired’ even after rest,” according to the Byoode cosmetologist and founder.
Creams Don’t Work
An inflamed skin is not at its best moment to receive potent active ingredients: ascorbic acid, retinol, alpha-hydroxy acids… “What used to brighten or refine texture can now sting, irritate or not deliver results because the priority is to repair,” says Irene Serrano.
Other visible signs?
- Small pimples appear. Inflammation can disrupt the skin’s balance and its barrier, as well as promote the production of more reactive sebum. “Small pimples can appear, especially in irregular outbreaks or a rough texture. By producing more oil to try to balance the dehydration caused by inflammation, these outbreaks are encouraged,” explains Perricone MD’s director of dermocosmetics.
- Expression lines and fine wrinkles look more pronounced. Dehydration makes the skin lose elasticity temporarily. “Lines look deeper because the skin is less flexible, less plump and with a reduced recovery capacity. Moreover, the inflammation itself contributes to a cascade of degradation of collagen and elastin (structural proteins of the skin that contribute to its flexibility and smoothness),” reveals Mireia Fernández.
- Recovery is slower. An inflamed skin spends more energy defending itself and less on regenerating. “Therefore it takes longer to calm down after sun exposure, an aesthetic treatment, a flare-up or an irritation,” explains Raquel González.
- It no longer tolerates products that used to suit it. This does not necessarily mean the product is bad, but that the skin has changed state and now has a more fragile and less ‘tolerant’ skin barrier. “It is a very typical sign. It also indicates that the skin now has other needs: to calm and repair,” says Estefanía Nieto.
What Do I Do Now?
First, contrary to what it may seem, inflammation is not an enemy to fight: it is more a protective mechanism and repair. In other words, it’s not about stopping it, but about repairing and restoring balance. “It’s not about demonizing inflammation, which is a natural and necessary process, but understanding that the body not only needs to activate defenses, it must also close the cycle and return to balance,” notes Ángel Durántez.
With that clarified, here is a series of measures you can adopt to achieve it:
- Simplify your routine. Ideally it is best to reduce your skincare routine to the minimum steps possible. “In the morning, gentle cleansing, a hydrating or calming serum, a repairing cream and sun protection. At night, delicate cleansing and a cream that repairs the skin barrier, without overloading the skin,” advises the Byoode expert.
- Remove what might be irritating. It is advisable to avoid strong exfoliants, retinoids if there is irritation, very acidic vitamin C, perfumes, astringent alcohols, aggressive cleansers and purifying masks. “It’s not forever: it’s until the skin becomes stable again,” clarifies this expert.
- Opt for actives that calm, repair and protect. “We look for active ingredients that reduce discomfort, reinforce the skin barrier and help the skin retain water,” according to the Byoode cosmetologist.
Ingredients That Accelerate Repair
- Ectoine. “Helps protect cells against environmental stress and reduces the sensation of reactive skin. It is very interesting when there is inflammation, pollution, temperature changes or skin that is prone to disturbance,” says Mireia Fernández.
- Pant h enol. A classic reparative ingredient because it soothes, hydrates and improves barrier function. “It works very well when the skin is tight, sensitive or needs to regain comfort,” according to Irene Serrano.
- Hyaluronic Acid. It does not reduce inflammation per se, but it helps a lot to restore hydration and plumpness. “In inflamed skin, maintaining water is key so it looks less marked and feels less tight,” continues Mireia Fernández.
- Ceramides. They are like the cement of the skin barrier. “When they are missing, the skin loses water and becomes more irritated; by replenishing them, resistance, hydration and tolerance improve,” says Raquel González.
- Fatty Acids. They help nourish and rebuild the lipid barrier. “They are essential when the skin is dry, thin, uncomfortable or prone to reacting to everything,” notes Irene Serrano, director of dermocosmetics at Dermalogica
- Squalane. “Provides softness and comfort without feeling heavy. It helps reinforce the skin’s lipid barrier and is very useful when we need gentle nourishment, without overload,” reveals Irene Serrano.
Anything Else?
A good dermocosmetic supplementation, always under prescription and medical supervision, can help combat silent inflammation.
“Omega-3 fatty acids help modulate inflammation and improve the barrier; vitamins C and E support antioxidant defense; zinc contributes to repair and balance of the skin. And antioxidant complexes and probiotics or prebiotics can also help, because the skin-gut axis heavily influences skin inflammation,” says Marta Agustí.
